I spent a week with no sunlight: A December to Remember 

By Chloe Bolton, University of Helsinki, Finland

I went on an ESN trip to Northern Finnish Lapland, what an experience. Now just to state, you don’t have to go with ESN, you go via train and rent a car there, get a cabin and plan your own activities. I chose to go with ESN as it’s an organised package rip, meaning you’ve got little room for error and can’t get lost or stuck on your own in the freezing cold (which is always a bonus). I will add that the ESN trip was a lovely way to meet people on exchange in Finland that don’t do law or go to the Uni of Helsinki because you get put in cabins with other students (approx 10 people) for the week!

You can definitely do it on your own in a different way (renting a car, getting a train…) if you don’t want to go on an already planned trip with an organisation.

Spending five days in Vasatokka, located in the remote and beautiful region of Inari, felt like stepping into another world, there is nothing quite like it. In December, Lapland is at its most enchanting. With the sun barely making an appearance, and the land of endless snow, beautiful frozen lakes and the most impressive trees you’ll ever see. If you’re lucky you’ll be able to see the Northern Lights. I was fortunate to see them four out of the five nights I spent there. 

One of the highlights of my time in Vasatokka was the chance to experience the Arctic in all its glory. With the temperature often dipping below -20°C, every moment outdoors felt like a small victory over the elements. The cold, while intense, was invigorating, and it made every outdoor activity feel like an adventure. One of our ESN activities was ‘survival skills in the Arctic’, we were taught to ice fish, build shelter and create a fire from scratch. But while doing this, we were also told to keep very very warm, because the cold conditions can be very dangerous. (Tip: if you can’t feel your fingertips, put them under your armpits, which is supposed to be the warmest part of your body, this can save your fingers from frostbite).

Of course, no trip to Lapland in December would be complete without hoping for a glimpse of the Northern Lights. Each night, we would all wait for the ‘aurora app’ text telling us the index was high enough to see Northern Lights and venture out into the cold, and stare at the sky, waiting for the Aurora Borealis to make an appearance. It’s a feeling of both anticipation and humility, knowing that nature is in control, and no matter how long you wait, the lights will come when they’re ready. Then when you spot a greenish cloud in the sky, take a picture and realise you’re staring at the Northern Lights. Once you’ve seen the picture, you’ll see it clearer in the sky too! Depending on the night it can be a little underwhelming, but overall it is a beautiful experience. 

I would definitely recommend booking onto the trip to Norway that ESN will take you to. We went swimming in the Arctic Ocean in one of the northernmost villages in Norway (and probably the world). Bugøynes is a small, picturesque village located on the coast of the Varanger Peninsula in the northeastern part of Norway, near the border with Finland and Russia. Known for its unique Arctic location and history, Bugøynes offers a distinct cultural blend of Norwegian and Finnish influences, as many of the village’s inhabitants are descendants of Finnish immigrants who settled there in the 19th century. We got to experience the combination of traditional Finnish saunas and the opportunity to swim in the icy waters of the Arctic Ocean. 

here are lots more activities to do, at a cost, such as husky sledge riding, or visiting a Sami Reindeer sanctuary, cross country skiing, etc… if you don’t book those, you’ll be able to do your own thing or visit the cities around, so you;’re not missing out!

There’s something about the Arctic, with its long nights and endless snow, that creates a sense of quiet introspection. The slower pace of life, the connection to nature, and the sheer resilience required to live here all left a lasting impression on me. Going in the middle of winter is definitely a once in a lifetime experience. It was definitely disorienting to be in a part of the world where the sun doesn’t rise for months on end. All you see for two to three hours of the day is beautiful pink and purple twilight skies, before the sun goes back down and the pitch black night comes back. 

It was a unique experience to see Inari’s strong connection to Sámi culture, and I was very grateful to learn more about the only indigenous people left in Europe.